Retinol: What you need to know
Posted by Pure Cosmetica on 20th May 2022
Retinol is a bioactive form of Vitamin A in skincare products due to its ability to improve skin texture and tone, promote cell turnover, improve collagen production and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. However, retinol can cause skin irritation and sensitivity, especially when used in high concentrations.
Vitamin A was originally used topically in the treatment of acne due its ability to prevent pores from clogging and reducing inflammation in the skin – as an antioxidant, this vitamin can help neutralise pro-inflammatory free radicals from both internal and environmental sources that cause tissue and cellular damage in the skin. Through its usage, it was discovered to also have smoothing effects on fine lines and wrinkles due to increased natural collagen production in the skin.
Retinol is the most popular over-the-counter anti-ageing solution currently in skincare products for its ability to boost collagen and elastin production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, promote skin cell regeneration; and reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Retinol Palmitate (a bioactive form of Retinol) is more gentle to sensitive skin.
Retinol itself is not an active ingredient. For Retinol to be effective, it needs to be converted to Retinoic Acid through a 2-step metabolic transformation, where it’s broken down into Retinaldehyde and then finally become Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is a Retinoid
Retinoids is group of drugs derived from Vitamin A to improve its efficacy, safety and tolerance by different skin types.
Types of Retinoids include:
- Tretinoin is the strongest and most active Retinoid. Tretinoin is Retinoic Acid, the final form of Retinol that reaches our skin cell receptors, therefore skipping the whole transformation process and making it 20 times more powerful than Retinol.
- Retinaldehyde (Retinal) is a stable, over-the-counter Retinoid that is better tolerated by the skin than Tretinoin. Retinaldehyde converts into Retinoic Acid for it to have active benefits on the skin.
- Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate) is a stable and the least irritating Retinoid. The milder Retinyl Palmitate offers the same anti-ageing benefits as Retinol and is great option for those with sensitive skin.
Retinyl Palmitate precedes Retinol in the metabolic transformation process, having 3 steps to convert into Retinoic Acid for it to take effect. Our INTENSE-A Face Oil Serum contains 1.0% Retinyl Palmitate in combination with 21 botanical oils to provide superior anti-ageing benefits, while keeping your skin nourished and smooth.
How to use Vitamin A
Vitamin A, in the form of Retinyl Palmitate, can be topically applied to the skin through both over-the-counter and prescription skincare products. Over-the-counter products may contain up to 2% Retinol, while higher concentrations require a prescription. It is advisable to use a maximum of 1.0% concentration to avoid skin irritation, particularly with frequent use.
Retinol, like any other Retinoids, can cause irritation and skin dryness, so it is best to introduced it to your skincare routine slowly by applying Retinol every second night before increasing to nightly applications.
It’s important to always wear sunscreen with SPF30 and higher. Not only Retinol increases your skin’s sensitivity to UV light, but also sun exposure causes premature skin ageing.
Avoid using Retinol and other Retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Retinol Alternatives
Bakuchiol is the gentle, plant-based retinol alternative that has been clinically proven to have the same anti-ageing benefits to the skin as retinol by improving skin firmness, collagen production, elasticity and reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles. It’s better tolerated by the skin without irritation issues, which makes it safer for those with blemished skin, sensitive skin, rosacea or dermatitis.
Our MULTI-B Face Oil Serum formula contains 1% Bakuchiol in combination with a blend of 21 botanical oils to repair and rebalance the skin’s protective barrier, calm itchy and irritated skin; and provide all the anti-ageing benefits of Vitamin A.